Back in 1977, we went on a wild and crazy ride with Roy Neary to track down the source of the subliminal messages he was receiving about a mystery place, which turned out to be a landing place for extraterrestrials at Devil’s Tower, Wyoming.  I’ve seen Close Encounters of a Third Kind a lot.  I mean, A LOT.  And that place has called to me – not as dramatically as with Roy Neary certainly – for all these years.

So, when we were headed to South Dakota for our western jaunt this summer, I knew that a little jog northwest was definitely going to happen.  Like so many destinations in that part of the country, the massive space is nothing short of awesome.  You drive and drive – through mountains, canyons, along rivers, with very little what we would call ‘civilization’ marring the scenery.  Sometimes, the vista is wide open and you can see mountains looming in the hazy distance.  So, in this case, I was searching for a glimpse of the iconic mountain that looks like a gigantic ancient tree stump.  And then, almost suddenly, there it was.

 
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It was almost sad to find the KOA at the foot of the mountain – however, this particular space appeared in the film as the base for the covert government operation going on at the top of the mountain.  And, when speaking to the owner of the campground, we learned that a couple of the buildings in the film are still there.  It was wonderful to be able to stay so close – and the mountain was the first thing I saw, waking up in the morning.

There is a 3 mile drive to the Visitor’s Center at the base – and a mile long hike along the perimeter.  With the exception of the people noise, it is quiet up there.  Going back at the end of the day rewarded us with very few tourists hanging around and a glorious view of Devil’s Tower being painted with the Sunset.

Before I go much further about our journey, let’s turn attention to the topic of motorcycles.  Yes, that’s me – way back in Sweetwater, Tennessee at the Caverns.  It was in the parking lot and I thought it would be funny to send a photo along to Adam, telling him I’d just bought it.  He believed me.  Bless his little heart – he gives me a lot more credit for chutzpah than I actually deserve.  I will say, though, that there is a part of me that WISHES I could drive that beauty.

Little did I know that this flirtation with a motorcycle would be a foretelling of a theme in our trip.  Not long after entering South Dakota – early in August, we started to notice a lot of motorcycles on the road.  The further West we got, the more there were.  Bob mentioned that there was a BIG RALLY coming up in a town called Sturgis – and that maybe we’d drive up through the town and check it out. HAHAHAHAHA.

By the time we arrived in the Badlands, they were EVERYWHERE.  Hundreds became thousands.  When we arrived at the funky town of Wall (known to everyone in the world, apparently, as the home of Wall Drug Store), the entire Main Street was blocked off from all traffic other than MOTORCYCLES. That became the rule in every little town we visited. And along the scenic routes were churches with open doors, huge tents with BBQs, every restaurant, every bar, all with welcoming open arms the throng of bikers.

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At first, I thought ‘this is kind of cool’ – fun, I said.  Then, as we headed to the Black Hills, there were even more.  I learned that this Rally attracts about 1/2 million bikers.  Seriously.  So, Mount Rushmore and the scenic routes – and every campground – were packed with folks decked out in boots, leather, studs, Sturgis tees, sometimes their dogs riding in the back.  Our fanciful idea of checking out the Rally in Sturgis was soon tossed aside and we made tracks for Wyoming.

As we arrived in Hulett for a much anticipated visit to Devil’s Tower, we looked down into the parking lot and said, in unison, “They’re here”.  After our close encounters with them at Devil’s Tower, we pretty much left them behind as we headed for Yellowstone.

Well onto the other side of Big Horn – we are in a vast (seems to me, anyway!) Prairie.  LOTS of Sage Brush.  undulating hills with some cattle, goats, horses, occasional oil wells, grass.  Space – with images of mountains ahead.  We decided to stop in Cody before heading into Yellowstone.  No expectations – but then a dear friend mentioned there is this museum.  Why not? So, turns out it is a fabulous museum – the Buffalo Bill Center of the West.   It really consists of several museums under one gorgeous roof – one of the most beautiful museums I’ve ever seen. The Natural History Museum is structured in a gently rising circuitous design – with each level dedicated to the seven ecoregions found in Wyoming.

Sounds of native birds, wolves, fabulous exhibits of underground structures created by Prairie Dogs, Eagle nests, a tutorial on wildlife in this part of the world – all in an exquisitely designed structure.

The Art Museum boasts the great sculptors and painters of Western art, including extraordinary Native American subjects and heroes and lots of American Cowboy art.

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There is a special exhibit of the great sculptor Remington which is based on the actual studio from New Rochelle New York, where he did so much of his  best work.

We were fortunate to be here to see a visiting exhibit of Albert Bierstadt and many of his best works featuring Western themes.

There is a wing dedicated to Buffalo Bill, the Plains Indian, and Firearms.  The exhibits are glorious – but truly, the setting of this magnificent building is the master frame for the art.  Worth a day.

And after indulging in the musem, a nice walk in the beautiful city park was  in order- a lush carpet of soft green grass, a fantastic amphitheater, miniature golf, picnic tables and pavilions, all among spectacular spruce and cottonwood trees.  The City has this feeling of being loved, well tended and maintained.  Alkali and Beck  Lakes run next to the main road, one of which is a breeding ground for many birds, some migrating – including the White Pelican and Loon.  Lovely City buildings and charming homes, beautiful schools, nice restaurants, and a rodeo every night!  What a great City.